Devil's Backbone problems & how to fix them

Euphorbia tithymaloides

Drooping, yellowing, brown tips, or a plant that just won’t thrive? Here are the most common Devil's Backbone problems, what usually causes them, and how to turn things around.

Common problems

Root rot

Lower leaves yellow and stems soften at the soil line when kept constantly moist. A fungal or bacterial infection of the roots, almost always triggered by soil staying wet too long. Caught early, most plants recover within a few weeks after repotting; if most roots are already mushy, recovery is uncertain.

Example of Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball, on another plant
Example on another plant

Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball

Photo: Jerzy Opioła · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Etiolation (insufficient light)

The signature zigzag straightens out and leaves space widely in dim corners. The plant is stretching toward light it isn't getting: long gaps between leaves, pale thin growth, and leaning. Stretched growth never compacts again, but with more light all new growth comes in full and sturdy - the plant's future is good.

Example of etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light, on another plant
Example on another plant

etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light

Photo: சஞ்சீவி சிவகுமார் · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Spider mites

Dry indoor heat invites mites that speckle and defoliate the stems. Tiny sap-sucking mites that thrive in warm, dry air and leave fine webbing and speckled leaves. Caught early they are very treatable; most plants recover fully within 3-4 weeks of consistent treatment.

Example of a two-spotted spider mite among its silk threads, on another plant
Example on another plant

a two-spotted spider mite among its silk threads

Photo: Gilles San Martin · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Cold damage

Leaf drop follows exposure to drafts or temperatures near 10 C. Tissue injury from a cold draft, a chilly windowsill, or a night outdoors below the plant's tolerance. Damaged leaves will not heal, but if the stems and roots survived, new growth typically appears within three to four weeks in a warm, stable spot.

Example of fig leaves killed by a frost, on another plant
Example on another plant

fig leaves killed by a frost

Photo: Famartin · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

The mistakes that most often kill it

  • Cold drafts by a winter window — it is more tropical than it looks.
  • Waterlogged soil in a heavy mix.
  • Snapping stems bare-handed; the sap can blister skin and harm pets.

Not sure what’s wrong?

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