Clivia problems & how to fix them

Clivia miniata

Drooping, yellowing, brown tips, or a plant that just won’t thrive? Here are the most common Clivia problems, what usually causes them, and how to turn things around.

Common problems

Root rot

Its thick, fleshy roots rot in constantly wet soil, especially during the cool rest. A fungal or bacterial infection of the roots, almost always triggered by soil staying wet too long. Caught early, most plants recover within a few weeks after repotting; if most roots are already mushy, recovery is uncertain.

Example of Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball, on another plant
Example on another plant

Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball

Photo: Jerzy Opioła · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Mealybugs

Mealybugs colonize the tight leaf bases where the fans overlap. Slow-moving sap-sucking insects that look like bits of white cotton stuck in leaf joints. They are stubborn but very treatable with repeated spot treatment; expect steady improvement over 3-4 weeks.

Example of a long-tailed mealybug on a leaf, on another plant
Example on another plant

a long-tailed mealybug on a leaf

Photo: D-Kuru · CC BY-SA 3.0 at · Wikimedia Commons

Sunburn

Direct summer sun bleaches irreversible pale scorch bands across the leaves. Leaf tissue scorched by more direct sun than the plant was acclimated to, often after moving it to a brighter spot or outdoors. Burned patches are permanent, but the plant itself usually recovers fully once moved - new growth comes in healthy.

Example of a sunburnt rubber plant leaf, bleached and browned where the sun hit, on another plant
Example on another plant

a sunburnt rubber plant leaf, bleached and browned where the sun hit

Photo: Secretlondon · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Overwatering

Winter watering at summer frequency is the main reason clivias fail to thrive or bloom. The soil is staying wet longer than the plant can handle, starving roots of oxygen. If caught before roots start rotting, the fix is simple - let the soil dry out and adjust the routine - and most plants bounce back within 2-3 weeks.

Example of a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen, on another plant
Example on another plant

a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen

Photo: Saurav9656 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

The mistakes that most often kill it

  • Skipping the cool winter rest, then wondering why it never flowers.
  • Warm, wet winters that rot the fleshy roots.
  • Letting pets gnaw the leaves or base — it is toxic.

Not sure what’s wrong?

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