Hens and Chicks problems & how to fix them

Sempervivum tectorum

Drooping, yellowing, brown tips, or a plant that just won’t thrive? Here are the most common Hens and Chicks problems, what usually causes them, and how to turn things around.

Common problems

Etiolation (insufficient light)

Indoors in ordinary light the tight rosette rapidly stretches into a loose cone. The plant is stretching toward light it isn't getting: long gaps between leaves, pale thin growth, and leaning. Stretched growth never compacts again, but with more light all new growth comes in full and sturdy - the plant's future is good.

Example of etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light, on another plant
Example on another plant

etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light

Photo: சஞ்சீவி சிவகுமார் · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Root rot

Warm indoor temperatures plus damp soil rot a plant built for cold, gritty slopes. A fungal or bacterial infection of the roots, almost always triggered by soil staying wet too long. Caught early, most plants recover within a few weeks after repotting; if most roots are already mushy, recovery is uncertain.

Example of Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball, on another plant
Example on another plant

Phytophthora root rot on a dug-up root ball

Photo: Jerzy Opioła · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Overwatering

It needs a fraction of the water of typical houseplants; excess turns rosettes mushy. The soil is staying wet longer than the plant can handle, starving roots of oxygen. If caught before roots start rotting, the fix is simple - let the soil dry out and adjust the routine - and most plants bounce back within 2-3 weeks.

Example of a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen, on another plant
Example on another plant

a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen

Photo: Saurav9656 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Powdery mildew

Stagnant, humid air around crowded clumps can trigger a white mildew film. A fungal disease that coats leaves in a white, powdery film and slowly weakens the plant. Caught early and treated consistently, most plants recover fully within a few weeks.

Example of powdery mildew's white coating on leaves, on another plant
Example on another plant

powdery mildew's white coating on leaves

Photo: Dmitry Brant · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

The mistakes that most often kill it

  • Keeping it warm, dim, and watered like a tropical houseplant.
  • Water pooling in the rosettes, especially in cool weather.
  • Rich potting soil instead of a lean, gritty mineral mix.

Not sure what’s wrong?

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