Tree Philodendron problems & how to fix them

Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum

Drooping, yellowing, brown tips, or a plant that just won’t thrive? Here are the most common Tree Philodendron problems, what usually causes them, and how to turn things around.

Common problems

Overwatering

Large pots stay wet for weeks; yellow lower leaves usually mean too much water, not too little. The soil is staying wet longer than the plant can handle, starving roots of oxygen. If caught before roots start rotting, the fix is simple - let the soil dry out and adjust the routine - and most plants bounce back within 2-3 weeks.

Example of a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen, on another plant
Example on another plant

a yellowing lower leaf on a potted Chinese evergreen

Photo: Saurav9656 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Etiolation (insufficient light)

Low light produces long weak petioles that flop instead of standing. The plant is stretching toward light it isn't getting: long gaps between leaves, pale thin growth, and leaning. Stretched growth never compacts again, but with more light all new growth comes in full and sturdy - the plant's future is good.

Example of etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light, on another plant
Example on another plant

etiolated seedlings stretching pale toward the light

Photo: சஞ்சீவி சிவகுமார் · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Spider mites

The broad leaf surfaces show stippling in dry heated rooms. Tiny sap-sucking mites that thrive in warm, dry air and leave fine webbing and speckled leaves. Caught early they are very treatable; most plants recover fully within 3-4 weeks of consistent treatment.

Example of a two-spotted spider mite among its silk threads, on another plant
Example on another plant

a two-spotted spider mite among its silk threads

Photo: Gilles San Martin · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Rootbound

A vigorous root system will crack plastic pots and dry out fast when packed. The plant has outgrown its pot: roots circle the inside, crowd out the soil, and can no longer hold water or nutrients well. Repotting into a slightly larger pot almost always fixes it, with the plant perking up within a few weeks.

Example of a root-bound root ball, roots circling the pot's shape, on another plant
Example on another plant

a root-bound root ball, roots circling the pot's shape

Photo: Keith Williamson · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

The mistakes that most often kill it

  • Overwatering a large, slow-drying pot in winter.
  • Confining a naturally huge plant to a dark corner.
  • Repotting into a pot several sizes too large, keeping roots wet for weeks.

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